I-40 exit 149 to back country 10 miles south of Grand Canyon:


Statistics for today
Distance 105.09 kms 65.24 miles
Climbed 1,011 meters 3,317 feet
Ride time (hours) 6.27 -
Avg speed 10.4 kph -
Avg climb 2% -
Max grade 8% -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 25,059.95 kms 15,571.56 miles
Climbed 263,533 meters 864,610 feet
Ride time (hours) 1,774.83 -
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Friday, April 4th, 2014

65.30

The 18 hundred-odd feet of climbing that start the day have me arriving in Williams completely famished. I make straight for the nearest café that’s not a chain where I have breakfast with a local guy named Robert. We talk a lot about Costa Rica because he is seriously considering retiring there, he’s already read a book on how to do it. Nice to get some extended human interaction along with my corned beef hash and eggs.

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Looking forward to it!
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Grasslands to pine forests.
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The King, Williams Arizona
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I always suspected that Phil Malone was a gunslinger in a former life.
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There aren't enough assault weapons out there. Wait, I know! We'll raffle them off!
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I have a bunch of errands to run in Williams: food shopping, internet, finding some white gas, and picking up a few other odds and ends I’m running out of. I food shop at Safeway. At checkout they ask me if I have their club card, I ask the cashier if I can use hers (usually that works) but she says no. These things annoy me, I don’t like to be punished just because I’m from somewhere else… I can’t possibly have a store card for every single super market chain in the United States! I ask the guy in line behind me if I can use his: done. It’s 5 bucks cheaper as a result. 5 dollars on a bill that’s only 35 to begin with is a significant amount. I stop in an outdoor store for fuel, Coleman Fuel costs 7.99 a quart! That's 24 bucks a gallon! At those prices I'll go back to burning unleaded... I find more reasonably priced white gas at a hardware store, then I’m off on the road that leads to the Grand Canyon. I’ve got the wind hitting me from the west while I ride due north so it doesn’t go all that fast even though there are some big descents. The landscape is back to grasslands for a good stretch.

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Healthy living.

Around 4:30 I realize that I’m not going to get into the Grand Canyon park until late. I’ve got my eye out for camping spots when the landscape gets back to trees. I come upon a gravel Forest Service road that looks perfect; even better, 100 meters in it says “camping allowed past this point”! Am I dreaming? Allowed? Yes! I ride for a while on some dirt roads until I find a nice secluded spot that already has a fire ring (no use dotting the landscape with another one). I make what is perhaps the easiest fire of my life, all the wood is just sitting around and it lights up with nothing but some grass and a lighter. I cook dinner on the fire, it comes out with a nice smoky flavor. An evening around the campfire…

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Wow! That's not a sign I see every day.
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Dirt road riding.
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Firewood: check.
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Cooking on the fire tonight.

Later in the tent I hear coyotes crying not too far away. 10 minutes later I realized there is something, multiple somethings, creeping around my tent. That'll get your blood pumping. I'm glad I put all my food and trash up a tree. They leave after a few minutes and the next time I hear them wail they are a good distance away. Tough to get to sleep after that adrenaline rush...