Cainesville Wash to Cathedral Campground (Capitol Reef): What I will and won't do for water.


Statistics for today
Distance 52.11 kms 32.31 miles
Climbed 1,023 meters 3,356 feet
Ride time (hours) 6.12 -
Avg speed 5.2 kph -
Avg climb 3% -
Max grade 16% -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 26,581.07 kms 16,516.66 miles
Climbed 277,712 meters 911,129 feet
Ride time (hours) 1,885.86 -
On this page

Tuesday, April 29th, 2014

Miles pushing the bike: 1.2 (1.93 kilometers)

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Map of today's ride, from Cainesville Wash northwest to Cathedral Campground.

It's going to be cold today. The wind is up to its usual tricks. I ride down across Cainesville Wash and I can start to see why they call this Cathedral Valley. There are massive buttes topped with greyish-green rock while the butte faces are fronted by long spires of red rock. They do look like cathedrals.

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Jaws.
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Cue the cathedrals.

The road is sandy, no surprise there, requiring bits of walking here and there until I can get back on a hard surface. I stop for lunch at some dunes that provide cover from the wind.

The water situation is not good. I started the day with only 1.5 liters. I come upon some washes in the afternoon that have muddy puddles in them but it certainly doesn't look enticing; I hold out for better.

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Lunch.
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This butte sponsored by illy.
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I see my first vehicle around 1:30. It is one of three vehicles that I will see today, a rare event in the U.S.A. It's a cold Tuesday in April so I guess the tourists aren't out yet. I take a turnoff at a sign for Gypsum Sinkhole to check it out... not really worth the extra effort.

Back in the valley I ride past some truly impressive rock structures that are part of Capitol Reef.

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Gypsum Sinkhole.
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They look like giant frescos.
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The road starts to climb as cedar trees appear. I'm getting close to 7,000 feet. The sandy road gives way to rocky gravel then comes a big climb up out of the valley onto a mesa. The water situation is dire at this point, I'm down to a half liter after some serious effort to get onto the mesa. I'm hoping that the campground has water or that there is someone there I can bum some from but neither scenario materializes.

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The road gets rocky climbing up to the mesa.
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Looking down on Cathedral Valley from the mesa.
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My map shows a creek off of Thousand Lake Road so I start climbing towards it. The creek is dry. I can see snow a couple of thousand feet above me so there is water out here, if not snow then runoff, it's going to be a question of how much effort I have to put in to get it. I could hang out on the road waiting for someone to come by but after seeing only 3 cars today it doesn't sound like a good option. Besides, what fun is scrounging water off of other people? I keep climbing. At 4pm I'm officially out of water and tired as hell. The temperature has dropped considerably. I get out my heavy gloves. A couple of miles up the road I leave Capitol Reef National Park to enter National Forest land. I'll climb the 2,000 feet to the snow line if I have to, but luckily at 8,000 feet I find a little stream. I'm ecstatic! I drink a liter right on the spot then fill up my water bottles with 5 liters, that's all the capacity I have after losing that bottle the other day.

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Boy was I happy to find this stream up Thousand Lake Road at 8,000 feet.

There was a sign at the campground saying "No Wood Gathering". When I get to the National Forest boundary I load up the bike with wood, a bit silly to be doing this but I'm trying to follow the rules out here as much as I can. At any rate I'm not going without a fire on this frigid evening.

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This is called getting foolish to try and abide by the rules. I'm packing wood from the National Forest back to the Capitol Reef National Park campground so I can have a fire because Capitol Reef has a no wood gathering rule.
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But it was worth it to have a fire on this frigid night.

The clothing sequence as the temperature drops works out like this:

4pm: The heavy gloves come out.

5pm: The ski cap and neck warmer make an appearance.

6pm: I pull out the ski jacket, then I put my long underwear on under my long pants (I've been wearing the long pants all day).

6:15pm: The campfire is lit.

I make a huge dinner of pasta (now that I've got some water to work with), vegetables, and tuna. I stay out in front of the fire as long as my wood lasts, I'm dreading getting into that cold tent for the night.

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How I wish I had a way to take this inside the tent with me.