Alishan to Shuili: Jade Mountain (Yu-shan National Park), monkeys and switchbacks


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Statistics for today
Distance 86.80 kms 54.06 miles
Ride time (hours) 4.44 -
Avg speed 19.5 kph -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 865.00 kms 537.49 miles
Ride time (hours) 42.51 -
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Wednesday, November 9th, 2016

Victor is headed back to Taipei today via bus and train, I'm continuing on the bicycle to Jade Mountain then northwards to points unknown. Today's highlight: monkeys, specifically Formosan Rock Macaques.

Breakfast provided by the hotel (at a different location we had a hell of a time finding) is such a sad affair that we skip it and eat somewhere else. Even at the discounted rate we got the hotel is a ripoff, but that's usually the way it is in places like this (remote parks). They've got you by the short hairs, particularly when you're on a bicycle and you can't exactly drive to the nearest city and come back during the day.

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The cliff opposite Alishan Park where we stayed the night.

I head east towards Yu-shan, the road winding along a ridge with views to the south until it crosses over and the views are to the north. It's not warm, to be expected given the altitude.

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Forest of conifers, at about 2200 meters (7218 feet) altitude here.
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View from the other side of the ridge, looking north.

There are scads of monkeys along this road. Most of them are shy and jump up into the trees as I approach, until I come across a gang of them hanging out in a grassy area next to one of the park buildings. These guys must be completely accustomed to people. They don't blink an eye when I pull up, in fact one of them tries to open my handlebar bag.

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Entering the park. Yu-shan = Jade Mountain.
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The gang.
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Everyone's keeping themselves occupied.
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This little one is a 10 on the cute scale.
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Reason number 53 to get your windows tinted: nosy monkeys.
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A guy flags me down and says there is an extremely rare deer around the corner. Around the corner all I see is this pheasant-like bird. It's either a really rare pheasant or the "deer" ran away.
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Fogged in at the top (about 2,500 meters or 8,202 feet).

At the top I stop in the visitor center to ask about the status of the road heading down the other side of the mountain. They say it's fine, about 3 hours of descent. I thought I was in for a lot more climbing today but I guess not. Good news, my legs need a break from yesterday. Cue 3 hours of coasting around switchbacks while I admire the views.

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On my way down the other side, heading northish towards Shuili.
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Cold enough to break out the heavy gloves for the first time on the trip. I've had these things since 2010, they've followed me on about 50,000 kilometers of biking, perhaps time to spring for a new pair.
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Looking down on the river valley I will be following northwards.
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Finally on the valley floor.

I have some difficulty finding the B&B I booked because their signs are only in Chinese. I eventually figure it out with my phone (the phone is a lifesaver in a place like Taiwan where I can't even read simple signs). The B&B is nice, run by a friendly guy. Between his rudimentary English and my fumbling Chinese we work it out.