Taroko National Park (Part 1): Taiwan's greatest surprise


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Statistics for today
Distance 108.60 kms 67.73 miles
Ride time (hours) 6.97 -
Avg speed 15.5 kph -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 1,071.90 kms 666.11 miles
Ride time (hours) 57.72 -
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Saturday, November 12th, 2016

This ride over Hehuan Mountain down into Taroko has by far the most impressive landscapes I've seen in Taiwan. Up to 3,275 meters altitude then down to sea level. I really didn't expect to be doing South America-style climbs in this country but here I am slogging up 15% grades through the clouds, and I'm loving it.

Right out of the hotel door the climbing picks up where it left off yesterday. I get an early start knowing what's in store. I don't want to be riding in the dark through Taroko Gorge (sunset is around 5:30pm).

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The scenery picks up right where it left off yesterday, as does the climbing.
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A sign marking the elevation.
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A shot between the clouds.
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I start passing the "titanium-lycra-clip-in-gortex-power bar" crews at about 2,500 meters. I confess that I take a perverse pleasure in this, with my 250-dollar bicycle, 25 kilos of luggage, and beach-clothes wardrobe.
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The road keeps going up, up, up...
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Reminds me of South America.
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The climbing is hard but the pavement is perfect. All things being equal (assuming I'm in decent shape, well-fed, well-rested, no nagging injuries), this kind of climb is mostly psychological. It's just a question of patience, one push of the pedals after the other, regular breathing to keep calm, not psyching myself out thinking about altitude or grades or how much farther there is to go. Some of the cyclists I've passed do appear to be overthinking things, complaining, wasting energy needlessly. We're not in Bolivia going up over 4,000 meters on rock paths after all. And the chuckwagon will surely rescue them if anything gets too uncomfortable.

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Switchbacks.
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Over 3,000 meters. I thought this was the top but alas...

I reach the summit by 11:30. This should put me in good shape to get down to the coast before nightfall. There are tons of people on the last kilometer to the top, taking pictures and wandering around in the fog, more calls of jia you as I climb. It's pretty cold with the wind, I don't hang out long at the summit. It looks sunnier on the other side so that's where I'm headed.

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...the pass tops out at 3,275 meters. The highest road pass in Taiwan.
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Not particularly warm up here. Strong wind as well. I put on my rainpants and heavy gloves for the descent.
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View on the other side. Looking northeastish here.
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Looking back up at the top of the pass.
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I'll be heading down below those clouds between the mountains in the distance, the Taroko Gorge.
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I suspect the deer that modeled for this statue didn't really look quite so chipper.
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Many chuckwagon cyclists on the back side of Hehuan, including this one with "Scream" backpack. I talk to one Australian guy who says he's with an American tour company.
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First of many tunnels on the way down.
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A big family picknicking at this waterfall offers me tea. I take a bunch of photos for them posing in front of the waterfall. I'll run into them a couple of more times before the day is done.
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Positively Pyrenean.
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The tunnel entrances are quite cool.
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Still have my jacket on. Won't come off until I get below 1,000 meters.
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Postcard moment.
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There's a cafe/restaurant run by indigenous people next to a "sacred tree". They sell peach honey, this is a coffee with the honey for sweetener. Quite good.
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The sacred tree.
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Road carved from the cliff.
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The Ferrari club is out for a ride in the mountains. Good think you can hear them coming, they are moving fast.

To be continued...