Tha Chang to Ao Luek: switching coasts, switching languages


Statistics for today
Distance 155.00 kms 96.31 miles
Ride time (hours) 7.58 -
Avg speed 20.5 kph -
Statistics for trip to date
Distance 1,103.20 kms 685.37 miles
Ride time (hours) 55.18 -
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Sunday, December 11th, 2016

Back-to-back 155 kilometer days in the heat. Switching coasts in one day, from east to west, ending in a bungalow complex full of French people. Late night speaking French; complete with flaming sticks, guitars, Thai take-out food, and lots of cheap alcohol (for them).

I have to ride a long way to get breakfast. By the time I find a place next to the highway I'm completely famished. The staff claps sarcastically after I finish my plate in about 2 minutes. I break off the highway after the city of Surat Thani and head west. It's really hot in the interior...

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They know how to get their kitsch on in Thailand.
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Into the interior, sharp mountains all around but oddly there is no climbing on the roads. Just mostly flat with rolling little hills.
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Well hello there.
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Snaking through the karsts.

I reach some fairly large town around 2pm. I have a dilemna: it's too early to stop, and I really don't want to stay in this town, but there's a 60 kilometer stretch of nothing before I get to the next population center. I already have 90k on the odometer for the day, it's hot, and I had a 155 kilometer day yesterday. The smart thing to do would be to suck it up and stay in this town. I'm not smart. I go for it, riding as fast as I can, stopping only to buy and chug water (which I have to do a number of times, it's a 6-liter kind of day).

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This is what most of the scenery looked like today: palm tree plantations with karst mountains as the backdrop.
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Tower at a wat.
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Getting closer to the coast.
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When I get closer to civilization I book something that looks kind of interesting, bungalows that are cheap, the reviews say party atmosphere but what the hell, I could do for some human contact. When I get close I know I'm in trouble. The GPS coordinates are leading me down two-track dirt roads through forests. I have visions of another one of these bad coordinate nightmares I've already experienced a few times. I arrive at the house and it clearly isn't the place I'm looking for. A guy out front gives me a knowing look and motions for me to follow him on his scooter. He leads me back to an intersection with a few houses and people hanging around out front. They say stuff to me but no one speaks a word of English. Finally a girl hands me a phone number written on a piece of paper. I call it, tell the guy I'm lost, he says where are you...haha like I know. I can't ask these people so I just hand the phone to one of the girls and I guess she explains to him what's up. Ten minutes later he arrives on a scooter. I follow him back out through the forest to finally arrive at the bungalows. And bungalows they are.

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The people in a tiny village that helped me contact the bungalow owner. They were sitting around husking some kind of fruit I didn't recognize.
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The website said bungalows, and they weren't kidding. Of the authentic bamboo variety, with mosquito net.
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The bike in front of my bungalow. (Next morning)

I spend the night hanging out with a bunch of French people, all Bretons execept one guy from Alsace. We order take-out and talk the night away. They're hitting the cheap whiskey hard and chasing it with weed. Knackered as I am, I make to 1am before I crash in my bungalow. Long day that ended on a high note.

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The owner gives us a show, first with a flaming staff seen here, next with flaming balls on chains (video below).